LCM: BELSTAFF SS16 MENSWEAR COLLECTION "DESERT EXPLORERS"

 

Fearless Explorers

 

 

 

The Men’s 2016 Summer collection develops the concept of the great British desert explorer, an intrepid and adventurous figure, motivated by the desire for discovery in the world’s hottest and unforgiving of landscapes.

 

 
 

In keeping with Belstaff’s history as supplier to the British forces, a strong military influence pervades the collection, with more than a nod to the Desert Rats. This is interwoven with other references from Belstaff’s archive and heritage, such as explorers old and new who have worn the brand; namely Lawrence of Arabia in the 1930s, to those of the present day such as Levison Wood (Walking the Nile) with whom Belstaff has worked on a customised explorer jacket for SS16.

 

 

 

 

Frederik Dyhr, VP Men’s Design: “It’s an exploratory collection that injects technical innovation and contemporary fabrications into Belstaff’s iconic silhouettes, evolving elements of military and heritage gear for a modern Belstaff identity.”

 

 

Gavin Haig, CEO explains: “We remain deeply rooted in our moto heritage, but have retuned our brand direction to be inspired by our wider values of daring, adventure and style in motion.

Belstaff opening up Asia, with a third store in Korea and a first in China pegged for September, and entering Japan in early 2016, has also encouraged the creative teams to revisit our Belstaff traditions of innovation - in materials, weights, function - to meet the demands of these climates and realise a Spring Summer collection as desirable as the heavier seasons we’re renowned for.”

  

For the collection’s presentation, Belstaff has taken over Old Billingsgate Market, an impressive landmark on London’s iconic river Thames with a terrace overlooking Tower Bridge and HMS Belfast to the left, the Shard in front, and London Bridge to the right, in a reaffirmation of the Britishness of the brand, now back on home turf.

 

 

Once again referencing Belstaff’s motoring and military heritage, a desert jeep, bike and army tent were deployed to set the scene. Casablanca beer, mint tea and kebabs were served by Momo’s, London's original North African den. Guests were then drawn into the concept and transported into the desert, where the collection was revealed on relevant models.

 

 

 

Special guest, Jack Fox, the latest talent to emerge from the illustrious Fox dynasty, perfectly embodies the spirit of the collection. His most recent film ‘Theeb’ – about a perilous desert journey -  has just been released, and he is about to embark on a West End run playing alongside his father James, in a new stage adaptation of ‘Dear Lupin, Letters to a Wayward Son’.

 

KEY SEASONAL MESSAGING: PRINTS & TAPING

This season, prints take centre stage with Belstaff developing a camouflage pattern that is hand-painted and unique to each piece, and a desert-terrain print inspired by old exploration maps. The hand-crafted camo is found on parkas and pea coats, while the map motif is featured on technical summer-nylon jackets, as well as on innovative dry-touch wax-cotton styles. Other blousons have the functionalism of print on one side and solid nylon on the other. 

Taping details, inspired by parachute construction, are a theme seen throughout the collection but most prominently in key outerwear pieces such as a full-length lightweight parka in the terrain print.

 

OUTERWEAR

Belstaff’s journey into the desert sees it combining pioneering fabrications with both heritage silhouettes, and new icons such as the oversize parka.

Bonded cotton, with taped seaming and leather trims, reinforces the innovation  of the collection yet harks back to Belstaff’s heritage in protective garments. Additionally this season provides an opportunity to lighten and play with protective finishes in the forms of coated cottons in Belstaff’s iconic silhouettes. Ideal for the Spring Summer season, lightweight jackets are key: in military styles through to shirting-inspired pieces, and cotton field-jackets to breathable Japanese cotton-nylons.

 

LEATHER

Hybridisation of materials and styles defines the collection, in particular the leather offering. Archive capes and elevated riders’ and field-jackets come in super-light bonded suede, contrasted with leather trim and details for a two-tone effect.  A classic flying jacket in washed leather comes crossbred with a café racer collar and ribbed cuffs and hem. Belstaff has also incorporated a unique perforated leather to maintain seasonality. Leather and oil-suede taping is used extensively to provide contrast and texture, exemplified by the hand-burnished, hand-waxed leather gilets.

 

DENIM / TROUSERS

Belstaff has introduced a number of new denims and trousers in a variety of novel washes and treatments for jeans and chinos, with the latter’s four- and six-pocket styles inspired by the utility of military clothing.

A key denim piece is a classic trucker jacket which has been updated with the addition of a café racer collar giving it a distinctly urban edge.

 

KNITWEAR

Yarns have been played with to accommodate seasonality with the introduction of lightweight cotton and silk blends. This season’s knitwear also takes its cue from the pervasive taping theme by imitating it with typically British stitching styles. The result is a relaxed yet modern aesthetic that references Belstaff’s moto heritage. Elsewhere, luxury knitted polo shirts come with a two-button placket in a military palette.

 

SHIRTS & JERSEY

As with knitwear, shirts and jerseys reference the taping aesthetic. Shirting also embodies the desert theme with a short-sleeve cotton-linen military shirt.

Tees provide a canvas for Belstaff’s hand-painted graphics and silk-printed explorer maps. Great trans-seasonal pieces such as nylon/fleece mix café racers provide an alternative way to wear the moto theme.

 

FOOTWEAR

The desert boot is the key element to this season’s footwear collection, coming in a range of khaki and sand tones and replete with a leather sole. A reinforced patch which loops over the toe makes them uniquely Belstaff. The classic Trialmaster boot has been given a desert-style super-light crepe sole, while a Chelsea boot has been updated in suede and hand-waxed leather options.